Tiling a bathroom is one of the most skill-building and cost-saving DIY projects you can tackle. Professional tile installation costs $15–$35/sqft in Canada — doing it yourself saves $8–$20/sqft on labour. The key to success is preparation and waterproofing, not just laying tile. Get those right and the visible work becomes straightforward.
| Category | Cost Range | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Step 1: Substrate and waterproofing | Day 1–2 | Cement board (Durock, HardieBacker) behind tile in wet areas. Apply RedGard or Schluter Kerdi membrane in the shower — this is the most important step and most skipped by DIYers. |
| Step 2: Plan your layout | Day 2 | Dry-lay tiles to find your centre line. Plan to avoid slivers of tile at visible edges. Mark your layout lines with a chalk line and level. |
| Step 3: Mix and apply thinset | Day 3 | Use polymer-modified thinset. Back-butter large format tiles. Ensure full coverage (>95% in wet areas) — voids behind shower tile cause failures. |
| Step 4: Set floor tiles | Day 3–4 | Work from centre out. Use tile spacers (1/8" for floor, 1/16" for wall) for consistent joints. Check level frequently. Let set 24 hours before walking on. |
| Step 5: Set wall and shower tiles | Day 4–5 | Work from bottom up. Use tile wedges for vertical joints. Cut tiles with a wet saw — a score-and-snap cutter isn't accurate enough for wall tile. |
| Step 6: Let thinset cure | Day 6 | Wait 24–48 hours before grouting. Do not grout over partially cured thinset — it will crack. |
| Step 7: Grout | Day 6–7 | Use unsanded grout for joints under 3mm, sanded for wider joints. Use epoxy grout in the shower for maximum durability. Apply with a rubber float at 45°, wipe diagonally. |
| Step 8: Caulk and seal | Day 7–8 | Never grout corners — use colour-matched silicone caulk at all changes of plane (floor-wall, wall-wall, around fixtures). Seal grout after 72 hours. |
Water behind tile causes mould, rot, and structural damage. RedGard liquid membrane or Schluter Kerdi sheet membrane must be applied before tile in all wet areas. This is where most DIY bathroom tile failures originate.
Regular drywall behind shower tile will absorb moisture and eventually fail. Use cement board or Schluter foam board in all wet areas. Greenboard is not waterproof and is not appropriate for shower walls.
Tiles over 12×12" require the floor to be flat within 3/16" over 10 feet. Use self-levelling compound on uneven concrete or subfloor shims on wood before tiling.
Choose grout colour carefully — light grout shows staining, dark grout shows efflorescence. For shower floors, medium grey is the most practical choice.
Yes, if the existing tile is firmly bonded, flat, and in good condition. Clean thoroughly, apply a bonding primer, and use an appropriate thinset. The floor height will increase by the tile thickness plus thinset — check door clearances.
Yes, in all wet areas (shower walls, tub surrounds). Cement board provides a stable, moisture-resistant substrate. In dry areas of the bathroom, drywall is acceptable for wall tile.
Epoxy grout is the best choice for shower floors and walls — it's stain-resistant, mould-resistant, and doesn't need sealing. Standard cement grout requires sealing and is more prone to staining. Avoid white grout on shower floors.
Properly installed ceramic or porcelain tile lasts 20–50+ years. The grout typically needs re-sealing every 1–2 years and re-grouting every 10–15 years in high-use showers. The tile itself rarely fails if the installation was done correctly.
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